Grill Royal
Das James Bond Gefühl
Das ist kein übliches Restaurant, das sind Cinemascope-Gefühle, überschwängliche Breitleinwand-Emotionen. Die Hauptstadt hat ihre neue Gastro-Show, ihre schicke Restaurantbühne zum Spielen: das Grill Royal am Spreeufer der Friedrichstraße. Hier wird alles dick angeschnitten, nicht nur die Fleischstücke.
Galeristen wie Modeschöpfer, Schauspieler und Lebenskünstler geben sich hier seit drei Wochen abends die Klinke in die Hand. Die mondäne Atmosphäre des Club-Restaurants berauscht, viele Herren kommen seither immer noch mit eleganten Einstecktüchern in den britischen Sakkos, der Eröffnungsabend war also keine Einmal-und-nie-wieder-Schau.
Boris Radczun, der "Felix"-Gründer, hat zusammen mit dem Kunstsammler Stephan Landwehr einen Edel-Grill eröffnet, dekoriert mit Holz und Granit, nostalgischen 60er-Jahre-Lampen und offener Showküche. Säulen mit handgearbeiteten Rauchspiegeln gliedern den für Berliner Verhältnisse sehr großen Raum, schaffen legere Großzügigkeit.
Die Küchencrew stammt aus dem "Felix", Chef Florian Glauert designt hier ein genial-einfaches Küchenkonzept: Steaks und Fisch, Austern, Hummer, Salate. Aller Schnickschnack ist gestrichen und bleibt das hoffentlich auch. In riesigen Schaukühlschränken wird Fisch und Fleisch präsentiert - alles inspiriert von den klassischen Grillrestaurants der Grandhotels.
Florian Glauert, der zuvor in New York und in Barcelona arbeitete, legt besonderen Wert auf die Qualität des Fleisches, verwendet Bioprodukte aus der Region.
Die Austern kosten 22 Euro das Dutzend, bei der ausgezeichneten Belon sind wir schon bei 45 Euro.
Der Grill Royal Salat (11/14 Euro) ist ein toller Filmstart, frische Wildkräuter animieren den Gaumen, gegrilltes mediterranes Gemüse und karamellisierter Ziegenkäse runden den Gang leicht und bekömmlich ab. Dazu das herrliche Hannoveraner Landbrot, ein 9-Kilo-Sauerteigmonster mit Anis und Olivenöl gebacken - das Herz des Genießers macht einen Sprung.
Die Steaks sind schon jetzt die besten der Stadt. Das Rinderfilet auf gegrilltem Grünem Spargel (45 Euro) ist Genuss-Lust, ach was, schiere Wollust! Wer will, kriegt auch das Wagyu-Entrecote mit Pommes und Bohnen für 56 Euro.
Nach den großen Portionen ist das "I love chocolate"-Dessert der verdiente Abschluss, Mousse, Parfait und Brownie harmonieren zusammen. Das einzige, was jetzt noch kommen darf, ist ein Glas Champagner und ein Flirt mit dem Nachbartisch - nicht nur die Herrenwelt ist gut vertreten.
Die Weinwelt hat 110 Positionen, vor allem Frankreich und Deutschland, und wird weiter ausgebaut.
Und wenn ab Frühsommer die Terrasse zur Spree offen ist, hat die Hauptstadt ihren Ort zum Träumen. Von außen wirkt der Grill Royal wie eine elegante Jacht, die gerade angelegt hat. Wenn die Sonne abends untergeht, taucht sie die Terrasse in rotgoldenes Licht. Großes Kino! Hier würde James Bond auch gern sitzen ...
Grill Royal
Friedrichstr.105 b am Spreeufer, Tel. 2887 9288, www.grillroyal.com
Öffnungszeiten:Di-So ab 18 Uhr
Karten:allePlätze:180
Fazit:Berlin kommt in der Restaurant-Klasse Londons und New Yorks an. Noch ein Wort zum Service, der war in den ersten Wochen grottenschlecht: Da haben wir eben erst das Niveau von Paris erreicht.
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